Chouchou Dulcey, Praline and Caramelized Hazelnuts

Chouchou Dulcey, Praline and Caramelized Hazelnuts

30 min
Preparation
40 min
Baking
20 min
Resting
4
Servings
★★★
Advanced

Choux buns and I are a great love story! Vanilla or praline, I completely melt! A few weeks ago, I was in charge of dessert for a meal with friends and I wanted to try a recipe by Grégory Quéré, the winner of the show “Qui sera le prochain grand pâtissier?” on France 2. You’ll find the recipe in his book.

Except that I reinterpreted it a little, without really meaning to, let’s be honest. My light praline cream refused to whip up. GRRR! I hate this kind of little kitchen mishap. So I had to improvise. The Dulcey crémeux that was supposed to go inside the small choux bun ended up filling the large one, and I filled the small choux buns with pure praline, Jean-François Piège style. In the end, it was very good: choux, craquelin, Dulcey, praline, caramelised hazelnuts… it’s bound to work! The only downside is that it was a bit heavy. I’m giving you Grégory Quéré’s recipe.

The recipe is a little long, I’ll grant you that. You can easily lighten it by removing the hazelnut sablé and then the pressed praline biscuit step. It serves as a base, but in all honesty, I didn’t find it added much to this dessert. It’s almost “a lot of work for not much” (yes, I dare say it!).

Come on, if you’re not on a diet (or you couldn’t care less about your diet), let’s get on with the recipe!

Ingredients & Method

8 components · Full recipe

Dulcey Cream (make the day before)

Ingredients
  • 170 g (6 oz) Dulcey blond chocolate (Valrhona)
  • 5 g (0.2 oz) glucose syrup (optional)
  • 100 g (3.5 oz) whole milk
  • 70 g (2.5 oz) hazelnut paste
  • 200 g (7.1 oz) cold whole cream
  • 1 gelatine leaf
Method
1

Soak the gelatine leaf in cold water.

2

Melt the Dulcey chocolate in the microwave, then add the glucose syrup and hazelnut paste. Mix together.

3

Bring the milk to the boil, then remove from the heat and add the squeezed-out gelatine. Mix well.

4

Pour the hot milk over the Dulcey chocolate mixture, whisking continuously.

5

Add the cream and continue whisking until combined.

6

Pour the cream into a dish and cover with cling film pressed directly onto the surface. Refrigerate overnight.

Light Praline Cream (make the day before)

Ingredients
  • 370 g (13.1 oz) whole cream
  • 37 g (1.3 oz) sugar
  • 60 g (2.1 oz) almond-hazelnut praline
  • 18 g (0.6 oz) hazelnut paste
  • 7 g (0.2 oz) hazelnut powder
  • 100 g (3.5 oz) mascarpone
  • 4 g (0.1 oz) gelatine
Method
1

Soak the gelatine leaves in very cold water.

2

Pour the cream and sugar into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the squeezed-out gelatine.

3

Add the praline, hazelnut paste and hazelnut powder. Blend until smooth.

4

Cover with cling film pressed directly onto the surface and refrigerate overnight.

5

The next day, loosen the mascarpone with a little of the praline cream.

6

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the praline cream together with the mascarpone until you have a light, airy chantilly. Refrigerate until ready to assemble.

Craquelin

Ingredients
  • 40 g (1.4 oz) unsalted butter
  • 50 g (1.8 oz) brown sugar
  • 50 g (1.8 oz) flour
  • 1 pinch fleur de sel
Method
1

In a bowl, mix together the flour, brown sugar and fleur de sel, then add the softened butter and knead for a few minutes until you have a smooth, homogeneous dough.

2

Roll the dough out to a thickness of 3 mm between 2 sheets of baking parchment.

3

Cut out small circles of the desired size using a round cutter (small circles for the small choux and larger circles for the large choux).

4

Freeze until needed.

Caramelised Hazelnuts (make the day before)

Ingredients
  • 125 g (4.4 oz) hazelnuts
  • 25 g (0.9 oz) water
  • 65 g (2.3 oz) sugar
  • 2.5 g (0.1 oz) unsalted butter
  • 1 pinch fleur de sel
Method
1

Toast the hazelnuts in a preheated oven at 150°C / 300°F for about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, leave to cool, then rub off the skins.

2

Roughly chop the hazelnuts (not too finely).

3

Put the sugar and water in a saucepan and cook to 118°C / 244°F. Check with a thermometer — if you don’t have one, wait for small bubbles to appear.

4

Off the heat, pour the chopped hazelnuts into the sugar syrup and stir well until they are coated in a white sandy sugar.

5

Return the pan to a medium heat. Stir constantly as the sugar begins to dissolve. The hazelnuts will caramelise gradually — be careful not to burn them.

6

When the hazelnuts are golden, add the butter and fleur de sel and mix well. Turn out onto a sheet of baking parchment or a silicone mat. Leave to cool and store in a dry place.

Choux Pastry

Ingredients
  • 100 g (3.5 oz) water
  • 100 g (3.5 oz) whole milk
  • 4 g (0.1 oz) salt
  • 4 g (0.1 oz) sugar
  • 90 g (3.2 oz) butter
  • 110 g (3.9 oz) flour
  • 150 g (5.3 oz) whole eggs
Method
1

Preheat the oven to 180°C / 350°F (conventional/static heat).

2

Bring the water, salt, sugar and butter to the boil in a saucepan.

3

Remove from the heat and add the sifted flour all at once. Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until a smooth dough forms.

4

Return to the heat for 30 seconds to dry out the panade — it should begin to stick to the bottom of the pan.

5

Remove from the heat and transfer to a mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Leave to cool for a few minutes, or run the stand mixer briefly until the steam disperses.

6

Beat the whole eggs together in a jug.

7

Add the eggs gradually to the dough. The paste should be neither too thick nor too thin — it should fall from the spatula in a smooth ribbon. A line drawn with a finger in the dough should slowly close back together.

8

Pipe 4 large choux (4 cm (1.6 in) in diameter) and 4 small choux (2 cm (0.8 in) in diameter) onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. It helps to draw (or print) a template on the parchment and then flip it over.

9

If you have leftover choux pastry, pipe it into silicone moulds and freeze for another occasion.

10

Place the hazelnut craquelin discs on top of each choux.

11

Bake for 30–40 minutes for the large choux and 20–25 minutes for the small (adjust according to your oven). I recommend piping the large choux onto one half of the parchment and the 8 small choux onto the other half. When the small choux are done, quickly open the oven, remove them, then close the oven immediately — you need to be fast, as the large choux won’t be fully baked yet and must not deflate.

12

Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool at room temperature.

Hazelnut Sablé (you’ll have some left over)

Ingredients
  • 225 g (7.9 oz) unsalted butter
  • 130 g (4.6 oz) sifted icing sugar
  • 20 g (0.7 oz) toasted hazelnut powder
  • 37 g (1.3 oz) hazelnut powder
  • 18 g (0.6 oz) praline
  • 60 g (2.1 oz) egg
  • 3.5 g (0.1 oz) salt
  • 375 g (13.2 oz) flour
Method
1

Preheat the oven to 170°C / 340°F (fan).

2

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter to a smooth pomade.

3

Add the remaining ingredients one by one in the order listed. The mixture should be smooth and homogeneous.

4

Place the dough between 2 sheets of baking parchment and roll out as thinly as possible with a rolling pin.

5

Bake for approximately 20 minutes. Leave to cool completely on a wire rack.

6

Blitz the cooled sablé to a fine powder in a food processor.

Pressed Praline Biscuit

Ingredients
  • 80 g (2.8 oz) praline
  • 25 g (0.9 oz) butter
  • 40 g (1.4 oz) Dulcey chocolate (Valrhona)
  • 200 g (7.1 oz) hazelnut sablé blitzed to a powder (see previous recipe)
  • 1 g (0 oz) fleur de sel
Method
1

Melt the butter and chocolate together in a bain-marie.

2

Add the praline and fleur de sel and mix. Add the sablé hazelnut powder and mix again until combined.

3

Spread 300 g (10.6 oz) of the mixture into the base of a 25 cm (9.8 in) pastry ring. Press down firmly with the back of a spoon to create an even surface.

4

Refrigerate for 20 minutes.

5

On a 25 cm (9.8 in) cardboard circle, draw and cut out a crescent moon shape with the point cut at a diagonal — the resulting form resembles a shooting star’s tail. Use this cardboard template to cut out the hardened biscuit.

6

Keep the crescent-shaped biscuit refrigerated and set the remaining biscuit aside for another use.

Assembly

Ingredients
  • icing sugar for finishing
  • caramelised hazelnuts
Method
1

Fill the small choux with the Dulcey cream.

2

Cut each large choux in half horizontally using a serrated knife.

3

Using a piping bag fitted with a star nozzle, pipe some light praline cream into each large choux.

4

Scatter over some caramelised hazelnuts, then place a small choux in the centre of each large choux and press gently. Finish with a rosette of light praline cream on top of the small choux to mask them completely.

5

Cover each large choux with its lid and dust with icing sugar.

6

Decorate with a few caramelised hazelnuts.

7

Arrange the 4 choux on the pressed praline biscuit.

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