When I make an entremets, I generally organise myself over several days and that’s what I advise you to do every time. It’s simpler, less stressful and for me, less physically tiring (on account of my back problems). Go figure, this entremets was made in a rush! Of course, I had in my freezer a disc of milk chocolate whipped ganache that I’d been left with after making a chocolate number cake (recipe coming soon). As I don’t like waste, I always freeze everything. Anyway, I had a milk chocolate insert and I wondered what I could pair it with. Passion fruit is a combination that works wonderfully and is well known (thank you Monsieur Hermé). But I’m not a big fan, I must say… so I preferred calamansi, my favourite citrus fruit of the moment. I wasn’t entirely sure I’d like this combination, but never mind, I wanted to try it for a meal with friends.
So there I was in the kitchen the day before the meal, with a sponge, a confit and a mousse left to make. Luckily, I also had some yellow mirror glaze left in the freezer (one less preparation). If I’d been less “in a rush”, I would have made an extra texture (a streusel under the soft sponge, or maybe even a white chocolate feuillantine crunchy layer, I don’t know…) But I ran out of time. Besides, if I hadn’t had this chocolate whipped ganache already made, I would probably have made a milk chocolate crémeux instead.
Verdict, it was really delicious, light and not very sweet! I’m an absolute fan of calamansi (I’ve just bought some more, actually, I have plenty to work with ^^). All my friends loved it! So it’s a recipe I highly recommend 🙂
Calamansi isn’t easy to find, it’s true. For my part, I buy it as a purée directly from G Detou in Paris. I don’t know whether it’s possible to get hold of it online… failing that, you can use passion fruit purée.
Ingredients & preparation
7 components · Full recipe
Yellow Mirror Glaze (can be made in advance)
Ingredients
- 75 g (2.6 oz) water
- 150 g (5.3 oz) sugar
- 150 g (5.3 oz) glucose
- 100 g (3.5 oz) unsweetened condensed milk
- 150 g (5.3 oz) white chocolate
- 10 g (0.4 oz) gelatine
- 60 g (2.1 oz) water (to rehydrate the gelatine)
- yellow food colouring
Preparation
1
Ideally, make the glaze the day before (or in advance) and reheat it in the microwave when needed.
2
Rehydrate the gelatine in the water.
3
In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar and glucose and heat to 103°C / 217°F.
4
At the same time, in a jug, place the white chocolate cut into pieces, the unsweetened condensed milk, the rehydrated gelatine and the yellow food colouring.
5
When the water/sugar/glucose mixture reaches 103°C / 217°F, pour it into the jug then blend with a hand blender to smooth the glaze, being careful not to incorporate any air bubbles.
6
If needed, pass the glaze through a fine-mesh strainer and refrigerate.
Milk Chocolate Whipped Ganache (make the day before)
Ingredients
- 87 g (3.1 oz) milk chocolate
- 52 g (1.8 oz) full-fat liquid cream
- 7.5 g (0.3 oz) glucose (optional)
- 150 g (5.3 oz) full-fat liquid cream, very cold
Preparation
1
Break the milk chocolate into pieces in a bowl and melt it in a double boiler or microwave.
2
Heat the cream and glucose in a saucepan.
3
As soon as the cream begins to simmer, pour one third over the chocolate and mix with a spatula to form an emulsion. Then add a second third, then a third to obtain a smooth, homogeneous mixture.
4
Add the very cold full-fat cream then blend with a hand blender until the ganache is smooth, taking care not to introduce any air bubbles.
5
Pour the ganache into a dish and cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface. Refrigerate for more than 6 hours (or ideally overnight).
6
The next day (or 6 hours later), transfer the ganache to a bowl then place the bowl and the electric whisk attachments in the freezer for about 15 minutes.
7
Remove the bowl and whip the ganache gradually until it is thick and creamy. Continue until the cream is firm.
8
Line a 16 cm (6.3 in) diameter ring with plastic wrap.
9
Pour the whipped ganache into the ring to a depth of about 1 cm (0.4 in). Place in the freezer overnight.
Soft Sponge
Ingredients
- 100 g (3.5 oz) butter
- 100 g (3.5 oz) plain flour
- 100 g (3.5 oz) icing sugar
- 2 g (0.1 oz) baking powder
- 110 g (3.9 oz) eggs
- 20 g (0.7 oz) lime juice
Preparation
1
Preheat the oven to 160°C / 325°F.
2
In a bowl, mix the softened butter with the sifted icing sugar, flour and baking powder.
3
Add the pre-beaten eggs and the lime juice. Mix to obtain a smooth, homogeneous batter.
4
Pour the batter into a 16 cm (6.3 in) diameter ring ( do not use all the batter — the sponge will rise during baking ). Spread evenly with an offset spatula and bake for 15 to 20 minutes.
5
Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the ring on a wire rack.
Mango and Kalamansi Confit
Ingredients
- 90 g (3.2 oz) mango purée
- 30 g (1.1 oz) kalamansi purée
- 15 g (0.5 oz) caster sugar
- 2.4 g (0.1 oz) pectin
- 3 g (0.1 oz) powdered gelatine
- 18 g (0.6 oz) water (to rehydrate the gelatine)
Preparation
1
Soak the gelatine in very cold water.
2
Heat the fruit purées then add the sugar and pectin mixture.
3
Bring to a full boil.
4
Off the heat, add the well-drained gelatine.
5
Pour over the soft sponge and leave to set in the freezer while you prepare the next step.
Ivory Kalamansi Mousse
Ingredients
- 100 g (3.5 oz) white chocolate
- 80 g (2.8 oz) kalamansi purée
- 3 g (0.1 oz) powdered gelatine
- 18 g (0.6 oz) water (to rehydrate the gelatine)
- 200 g (7.1 oz) full-fat liquid cream
Preparation
1
Rehydrate the gelatine in the water.
2
Make a ganache: melt the white chocolate in a double boiler until it just begins to melt.
3
Heat the kalamansi purée then, off the heat, add the rehydrated gelatine.
4
Pour the contents of the saucepan over the white chocolate in 3 additions, emulsifying each time. The chocolate should be smooth and glossy.
5
Whip the liquid cream but do not take it too far — it should be light and mousse-like.
6
When the ganache has cooled to 20°C / 68°F, gently fold in the whipped cream and set aside.
Assembly
Ingredients
- None
Preparation
1
Pour the ivory kalamansi mousse into the silicone mold and run a spatula up the sides for a clean assembly.
2
Remove the milk chocolate whipped ganache insert from the freezer and gently press it into the mousse, centred.
3
Add the remaining kalamansi mousse then push in the soft sponge and confit base (confit side against the mousse).
4
Smooth the surface with a spatula.
5
Cover with plastic wrap and place in the freezer for at least 3 hours, ideally overnight.
Decoration
Ingredients
- None
Preparation
1
Remove the entremet from the freezer and unmold.
2
Place the frozen entremet on a wire rack set over a plate or tray to catch the excess.
3
Reheat the yellow glaze in the microwave to approximately 30°C / 86°F and pour gently to cover the entremet completely.
4
Remove the entremet from the rack and place on a serving dish.
5
Leave to defrost in the refrigerator. Allow approximately 5 to 6 hours for defrosting.
6
For decoration, I used a little chocolate mirror glaze I had left in the fridge and made small sugar paste flowers.
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